One-Handed Yari Technique #3
This technique is basically the same as One-handed Yari #1 except this time the rainbow block is done with the spear and not a sword.
The technique starts again with a 45-degree forward step and block. Once the attacking sword is deflected, draw your dagger and stab or cut the attacker.
It should be noted that maintaining a solid grip on the spear at this angle is not very stable with one hand, so any drawing and stabbing/thrusting action must be done quickly to avoid a counter attack.
Due to the awkward position of the spear it may be necessary to drop the dagger in order to defend against a counter attack, though my teacher taught several variations where the dagger was used to block, and the spear was then repositioned for attack.
One of my favorite variations of this technique starts with the underhand dagger thrust position as depicted in photo #2. After the initial block and thrust, I will re-grip the top portion of the pole in a manner where the dagger blade extends beyond the tip of the end-cap. This grip position basically allows me to have a blade on each end of the spear, and allows me to thrust at my opponent, or use the pole to fracture his shoulder without having to change my position.
This grip requires a little practice in order to be able to fully control the dagger and the spear.
The technique starts again with a 45-degree forward step and block. Once the attacking sword is deflected, draw your dagger and stab or cut the attacker.
It should be noted that maintaining a solid grip on the spear at this angle is not very stable with one hand, so any drawing and stabbing/thrusting action must be done quickly to avoid a counter attack.
Due to the awkward position of the spear it may be necessary to drop the dagger in order to defend against a counter attack, though my teacher taught several variations where the dagger was used to block, and the spear was then repositioned for attack.
One of my favorite variations of this technique starts with the underhand dagger thrust position as depicted in photo #2. After the initial block and thrust, I will re-grip the top portion of the pole in a manner where the dagger blade extends beyond the tip of the end-cap. This grip position basically allows me to have a blade on each end of the spear, and allows me to thrust at my opponent, or use the pole to fracture his shoulder without having to change my position.
This grip requires a little practice in order to be able to fully control the dagger and the spear.
Labels: Spears, Techniques
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